As we know, one of the specialties of the Audemars Piguet manufacture is the perpetual calendar. This complication returns this year to the front of the stage at AP within the iconic of the Royal Oak in a titanium and platinum version which pushes the limits of the ultra. – automatic dish. Too bad, however, that the case is 41 mm and that the “large tapestry” disappears.(Audemars Piguet Royal Oak QP Ultra-Thin Automatic replica watch)
Audemars Piguet is known and recognized for its famous Royal Oak which trusts its turnover. And by far. Yes, but not that. AP is also known and recognized for its perpetual calendar calibers. A complication that probably saved the brand during the quartz crisis in the 1970s.
Indeed, at the time, when Swiss watchmakers disappeared in the face of the Japanese tidal wave, Audemars Piguet decided to highlight the QP and claim it loud and clear. A “crisis strategy” that will work and allow the Manufacture to survive thanks to this horological complication.
We remember that the Manufacture then delivered, at the height of the quartz crisis, the world’s thinnest self-winding Perpetual Calendar wristwatch, including a caliber (2120/2800) 3.95 mm thick.
“The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Extra-thin Automatic (ref. 26586IP.OO.1240IP.01) becomes, with its 2.89 mm thick movement and 6.3 mm high case, the automatic wristwatch. finest in the world ”affirms the Manufacture from Le Brassus in its press release. The latter is visible through a sapphire crystal case-back and its power reserve is standard with 40h.
To achieve a movement barely 2.89 mm thick (cal. 5133), the perpetual calendar functions, usually mounted on three separate levels, were brought together on a single plane.
A new technical feat which gave rise to the development of two major and patented innovations: the integration of the month-end cam to the date wheel and the association of the month cam to the month wheel. The shape of each component has also been optimized early in the design process, reducing assembly and setup times.
The dial has also been redesigned compared to previous Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models (such as ref. 26574). The day, date and month counters have been enlarged for optimal readability and a day and night indication has been added at 8 o’clock, next to the leap year indication, placed at 4 o’clock. The whole is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
On the other hand, purists and fans of the OR will certainly regret the disappearance of the “grand tapestry” dial without which an RO is not really an RO … It is replaced here by a satin blue finish which is intended to be more refined. But not convincing so far.
Evolution of the initial prototype in 950 platinum, the RD # 2 presented at SIHH 2018, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Automatic Ultra-thin combines titanium and 950 platinum in a 41mm case (we clearly regret the 39mm) waterproof to 20 meters.
The 41mm is not suitable for all wrists given the integrated bracelet and this extra-flat diameter tends to make a “cake”. As with the movement, the finishing of the case and the dial were carried out by hand by the craftsmen of the house.
The alternation of polished and satin-brushed surfaces on the case, bracelet and bezel enhances the beautiful contrast of the two materials (which go very well together. As such, AP is particularly effective when it is it is a matter of associating metals, we remember the beautiful tantalum models in steel or rose gold).
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